Mauna Kea is a deeply sacred place that is revered in Hawaiian traditions. It’s regarded as a shrine for worship, as a home to the gods, and as the piko of Hawaiʻi Island.

Mauna Kea is the tallest -- though not the highest -- mountain on Planet Earth.  Rising 13,796 ft above sea level, it is over 33,000 ft tall when measured from its base at the bottom of the sea.  

Surface elevation: 13,025′ • Area: 64,580 ft² • Catchment area: 33 acres • Max. depth: 2–2.5 m (6.6–8.2 ft) • Location: Mauna Kea, Hawaii • Max. width: 100 m (330 ft) • Volcano type: Shield • Composition: Basalt • Most recent eruption: Between 6,000 and 4,000 years ago

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cultural

  • Wao Akua, the dwelling of Wākea

  • Home of Poliʻahu and her sisters

  • Used by cultural practitioners today

  • Conservation district lands

  • “Ceded” crown lands

  • Home to endemic native plants and animals, many found nowhere else on the planet


 
 

Wao Akua

Mauna a Wākea is known to reach into Wao Akua, the Realm of the Gods. In ancient times, Wao Akua was kapu (forbidden) to everyone but the highest aliʻi (chiefs). At the top of Mauna a Wākea, in Wao Akua, sits Lake Waiau. Given the name for the goddess that birthed and created the lake, Waiau was used as a place of knowledge and learning for the aliʻi. The top of Mauna a Wākea sits close to the heavens so the aliʻi would go up there to worship, pray, and learn. Using the reflection of the stars in the glassy water of Lake Waiau, the aliʻi would study the stars to be used to voyaging and navigation, the seasons for planting and harvesting. The water of Lake Waiau is also known to have healing properties. The wai (water) is collected and used to ceremonies and healing.  Mauna a Wākea is home to many Akua, which give life to our sacred mountain and the complex hydrological and ecological ecosystems that live within in.

Home of Poliʻahu and her sisters

Mauna a Wākea is known to be the dwelling place of Poliʻahu, the beautiful goddess of snow. Mauna a Wākea is also known to home to Lilinoe, the goddess of the mist that cascades down the slopes of the mountain and Waiau, the goddess of the underground reservoir of water that comes up from Mauna a Wākea. Not only is Mauna a Wākea home to Akua, but also Kūpuna. It is known that in the uppermost zones of Mauna a Wākea, one puʻu (cinder cone), Puʻu Mākanaka contains burials of our passed ancestors. The other four puʻu on the mauna are also considered to contain ʻiwi kūpuna (the bones of our ancestors). Also, according to the Mauna Kea Science Reserve, located on the mountain, there are known to be 263 historic properties, including 141 ancient shrines. 

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The Conservation District

Mauna Kea and Haleakalā are part of 2 million acres of conservation lands around the Hawaiian islands protected within Hawai'i's conservation district.

Commercial use (and other "non-conforming" uses) of resources within conservation districts in Hawai'i requires a Conservation District Use Permit, or CDUP.  Applications for CDUPs are approved or denied by the State Board of Land and Natural Resources (BLNR). The purpose of conservation districts is to "conserve, protect and preserve the important natural resources of the State through appropriate management and use to promote their long-term sustainability and the public health, safety and welfare." (HRS 183C)

Over the years, the BLNR has consistently "rubber-stamped" Conservation District Use Permits (CDUP) for telescope development, without much study of the area or assessment of impacts. On Mauna Kea, two reports by the Hawai'i State Auditor criticized BLNR and the University of Hawai'i, finding management of Mauna Kea "inadequate to ensure the protection of natural resources" and "neglected ...the cultural value of Mauna Kea."

Advocates for Mauna Kea have successfully challenged the "rubber stamp" permits for telescope development on the mountain, and in 2007 won a landmark case in the Third Circuit Court. The judge revoked the Conservation District Use Permit issued by the BLNR for the Keck Outrigger Telescope Project because of inadequate planning, and inadequate protections for cultural and natural resources.

CEDED “CROWN LAND”

Mauna Kea and Haleakalā are crown lands, today part of Hawai'i's "ceded lands trust," also known as "public trust lands"--lands of the monarchy prior to 1893 overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom.

Ownership over Mauna Kea has followed that of most of the Ceded Lands: the lands of Mauna Kea first belonged to the chiefs, then the Monarch held them in common with the people after the Constitution of 1840, then the Māhele deemed them Government Lands, until the provisional government claimed and merged those lands to be jointly held in trust after the Overthrow, then ceded those lands to the United States, which finally ceded most of the land to the State of Hawai‘i in 1959.

State law requires that fair market rent be charged for any and all leasing of "ceded" crown lands in Hawai'i. (HRS 171)

In 40 years of telescopes on the mountain, international astronomy has prospered on our summits. The value of UH-owned patents derived from technology developed just on Mauna Kea was conservatively estimated to be worth $14 million back in 2001. In 2008, a single night of viewing time at the Keck Observatory was valued at $80,000.

In return, the people of Hawai'i receive $1/year in Mauna Kea and $0/year on Haleakalā for this industrial use of this public trust land.

When Governor Lingle took office, Mauna Kea advocates met with her staff and provided an overview of our concerns, including a preliminary fiscal analysis proposing the state charge the international observatories collectively between $45 and $50 million dollars per year for use of Mauna Kea.

If rent or revenue sharing had been collected for the last ten years, just on Mauna Kea, the state would have collected $500 million dollars. One year could fund the entire the University of Hawai`i at Hilo.

Rapid expansion of the industrial footprint in the summit conservation districts has been enabled in part by the artificially low rent charged to developers. On Mauna Kea, the Hawaii State Auditor has found that UH management of summit resources "focused primarily on the development of Mauna Kea and tied the benefits gained to its research program," and that its focus on telescope development has been "at the expense of neglecting the site's natural resources."

The artificially low rent paid on Mauna Kea and Haleakalā results in not enough resources for protecting habitat, cultural sites, endangered species, water quality, and public access on the sacred summit. The State Board of Land and Natural Resources has repeatedly cited inadequate resources as the reason they cannot develop the comprehensive management plan required for the summit conservation district.

We know from various environmental studies (including the 2005 NASA EIS), that the impacts of astronomy developments on the cultural and natural resources of our summits have been "substantial, adverse and significant."

- These sweetheart deals on Mauna Kea and Haleakalā translates to millions of dollars denied to important public programs, like schools, roads, hospitals and parks, which benefit people throughout Hawai'i nei.
- The artificially low rent accelerates development, and also ensures that there are not enough resources for protecting habitat, cultural sites, endangered species, water quality, and public access on the sacred summits.
- By some estimates, total rent for leases just on Mauna Kea should be fairly valued at $45 million to $50 million/year.
- Ten years of rent and revenue sharing lost = $500,000,000
- One year of rent and revenue sharing lost = the entire budget of UH Hilo
- State law (HRS 171) requires fair market rent be charged for use of public trust "ceded" lands.

Who pays the price?  We all do.

 

NATIVE PLANTS AND ANIMALS ON MAUNA KEA

Flora

Ferns and Shrubs
As one moves toward the summit, the vegetation becomes more sparse and less voluminous, with shrublands making up most of the ground between the treeline and the desert at the summit of the volcano.

Once extremely common throughout the area, you’ll be lucky to see the following now-rare species during your travels: Mauna Kea Silversword or ‘Ahinahina (Argyroxiphium sandwicense), Hawaiian Strawberry (Fragraria chiloensis), alpine tetramolopium (Tetramolopium humile), and more.

Hawaiian-native ferns found throughout the area include bird’s nest ferns (Asplenium adiantum-nigrum), Douglas’ bladderfern (Cystopteris douglasii), Kalamoho (Pellaea ternifolia), ‘Iwa’iwa (Asplenium adiantum-nigrum), and Olali’i (Asplenium trichomanes).

Trees and Native Grasses
Along the more gradual slopes within the treeline, hikers and adventurers to Mauna Kea can enjoy sights of native Mamane (Sophora chrysophylla) trees with two native grasses below and between: alpine hairgrass (Deschampsia nubigena) and pili uka (Trisetum glomeratum) as well as a non-native species in Nassella cernua.

Lichens
While not technically plants, lichens are found throughout the summit of Mauna Kea, with the highest concentration being along lava rocks largely protected against direct sunlight. More than 21 species of lichens can be found on Mauna Kea, with half being endemic to the state. Two lichen species, Pseudephebe pubescens and Umbilicaria pacifica are found only on Mauna Kea.

Fauna

Very few animal species can survive in the alpine and subalpine conditions present on Mauna Kea. You will primarily find arthropods (insects and spiders), birds, and bats.

Birds
You can find several native Hawaiian bird species on Mauna Kea such as the Palila, ‘Amakihi, ‘Apapane, ‘Elepaio, ‘Akiapola‘au, ‘I‘iwi, and the Hawaiian petrel or ‘Ua‘u. Birds on Mauna Kea tend to live in the Māmane woodlands or the alpine shrublands where they feed on seeds, nectar, and insects.

Bats
The Hawaiian hoary bat (ʻōpeʻapeʻa) is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands and can be found in the Alpine environment of Mauna Kea. You can identify a hoary bat by its frosted appearance, the fur is brown with frosted white on its back. This bat is an endangered species, so be sure not to disturb any bats you come across.

Arthropods
There are 35-40 different species of arthropods that have been identified on Mauna Kea. These include bugs, moths, beetles, spiders, louse, and centipedes. Many of the arthropods are scavengers and predators with very few species that feed exclusively on plants. The scavengers tend to live near cinder cones and close to snowfields, where the plant feeders tend to live in the Māmane woodlands or the alpine shrublands.

How many did you see? The treasures of Mauna Kea are always revealing themselves, so be sure to keep a close eye out on your next expedition to experience the best of the Big Island’s most famous and imposing natural formations.

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